Chitwan in three days, without the elephant ride

Chitwan was Nepal's first national park and remains the most reliable place in the country to see a one-horned rhinoceros. What has changed is how you are expected to see one.

Elephant-back safaris have been progressively phased out on welfare grounds, and the better operators no longer offer them. Jeep safaris, canoe trips and guided walks have replaced them, and are better for wildlife viewing in any case — an elephant announces its arrival, a canoe does not.

Day one. Arrive, walk to the Rapti riverbank for sunset. Watch for gharial on the sandbanks.

Day two. A full-day jeep safari into the core area, starting early. Rhino sightings are common; tiger sightings are not, and any operator promising one is not being straight with you.

Day three. Dugout canoe at dawn, then a guided walk with two licensed naturalists — the park requires two for walking safaris, and this is not a rule to negotiate around.

On guides. Use licensed guides registered with the park. The difference in what you see is considerable, and the safety difference on a walking safari is not theoretical.