The wind at Jomsom

The Kali Gandaki gorge runs between Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, and is by one common measure the deepest gorge on earth. It also functions as an enormous wind tunnel.

By late morning, air heated on the Terai plains is drawn north through the gorge, and by midday the wind through Jomsom is strong enough to make walking uncomfortable and flying impossible. This is why every scheduled flight to Jomsom departs in the early morning, and why afternoon arrivals are routinely cancelled.

If you are walking. Start early. Aim to be off the exposed valley floor by eleven. Carry a buff or scarf: the gorge is dry and the wind carries fine dust continuously.

If you are flying. Book the earliest slot available and build a spare day into the plan. Weather cancellations here are normal rather than exceptional, particularly outside the autumn window.

If you are riding. The jeep road from Beni is rough but reliable outside the monsoon. In July and August, landslides close sections without notice.